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I have a IS1000Z zero turn Ferris mower with 800 hours that I maintain myself. Two weeks ago while in use, I had the mower die while stopping to open a gate. The mower would not turn over.

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I obtained a schematic on line and went over the machine. The seat switch, parking brake switch and neutral switches checked out on the continuity meter. There are two relays and they seemed to work when voltage was applied. The key switch checked out on the meter. When I wired the start terminal of the key switch to the starter solenoid, the engine turned over but would not fire.

I began to trace the circuits and things seemed OK except for when I got to one circuit at the parking brake switch which read 84 ohms instead of zero. Eventually it occurred to me to pull both relays out and connect the start terminal of the key switch to the starter solenoid.

Driver tuner download. The mower runs fine now with no safety switches working. Maybe no switches is a good thing and I should stop here.

I'll go back and test again, to see if I have the same results but any random thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks, Bill •. Get a wiring diagram for your specific model and serial number machine.

Usually the seat switch, both travel lever switches, and the parking brake switch are involved with at least one relay in the engine cranking circuit. This is all wired thru the PTO switch. All or most of the same switches are involved in the engine running circuit also and probably the second relay. The engine makes it's own spark just by cranking and the ignition circuit is grounded by the keyswitch to shut it down when in the off position. While running, when any safety switch is not functioning or not lined up correctly in the circuit, when the operator gets off the seat the engine will be shut down by the safety circuits.

Thanks for your input, Mad Mackie. I have the correct wiring diagram in hand. There are two circuits going through the seat switch. One is the starter motor. I'm pretty happy that that on is working. The other un grounds the magneto and kills the PTO if the switches are not arranged in a proper way. I've pulled the PTO switch out of the connector, but that had no effect.

I'll go over that circuit again, but not today. I have too much tall grass to cut. I have the same problem. Did you ever find out what caused it? Make yourself a set of bypass jumpers. They need to be 4' to 12' long with a male spade on each end.

Check the seat switch, some are open and close when your bum is on them & others are open then close. If it is a 4 wire switch then they can both work the same or each side could work the opposite way as brake switches do. So you start with bypassing the seat switch so you can work with the seat up, hint, tie it to something they are heavier than they look.:mur: I don't have the wiring diagram for your mower but usually dark colours are generally ground circuits and light colours are generally power circuits. If a switch does not switch when the plunger is moved then the switch is dead' Worst case a full set of switches will be cheaper than an hour of shop labour.

The circuit through a switch joins the contacts on the flats not on the edges but that should be obvious by the colours of the wires in the plugs that go on them.

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